On the edge of Earth - Cape Town

So I've finally come around to writing about my trip to Cape Town. Would you believe me if I said it was the most beautiful place on earth? Would you believe me if I said that even an entire week was not enough to see and do all the things that this wonderful city had to offer?

After spending a week in Zulu land I was dying to see civilization again. Time constraints meant we had to choose between Johannesburg and Cape Town and I am glad we chose Cape Town. It is the most perfect combination of the ocean, mountains and valleys. What an amazing location for a city. The backdrop of Table Mountain and the amazing coastline made for a picturesque setting. We stayed in one of the smaller towns called Gordon's Bay in a charming B&B. Every morning we woke up to a spectacular view of the Bay and a traditional English breakfast. All the people who meditate or get away for the weekend should just come here, I thought.

The history of Cape Town was as complex and multicultural as the rest of the country. We spent the first day walking around all the historic buildings in the city and going to the museums. Cape Town had a long history of being a pit stop for the slave trade and the resulting diversity is apparent. Cape culture was a mix of Afrikaans, Malay, Indian and British. The beautiful Victorian architecture reminded me of visiting the Victoria Memorial in Calcutta. I immediately felt at home. A rainy next day meant a beautiful drive across wine country. Stellenbosch did not disappoint. Four years of visiting Napa and Sonoma had jaded me for this trip. The wineries were beautiful, almost quaint with a certain English charm and manner. Every tasting was exquisitely laid out. I was quiet impressed with the South African chardonnays and thrilled that they were not the buttery whites that seemed to have invaded California.

                                                         Wineries in Stellenbosch

Each day exceeded the previous in beauty and diversity. Our days were spent taking in such outstanding natural beauty and our nights were occupied with elegant dinners, cocktails and city strolls. The food was on par with anything I had eaten in SF and NYC, especially one particular tapas place that did a curry with papad. I love it when there is an Indian twist! We also did a grand High Tea service at one of the oldest hotels in the city, Mount Nelson. Suffice it to say that we skipped dinner that night. Rooibos, the local bush tea was interesting and a welcome change from my regular Assam tea.

                                                                      High Tea

Our last day was filled with panoramic views of the city, mountains and ocean from Table Mountain. One of the oldest ranges in the world, it had its own unique ecosystem with flora, fauna and organisms found nowhere else. One can spend an entire day at the top just digesting all the views. We had to leave, in order to watch the penguins waddle on the beach. Penguins! Really! It was mating season and the beach was littered with mama penguins and their young. I couldn't believe I was looking at so many of them in their natural habitat. The picture of penguins and snow has been permanently erased from my mind. At least, till I make it to Antarctica (the husband has every intention of taking me there).

                                                            On Top of the World

I wish I knew more superlatives to describe the natural beauty of Cape Town. You will just have to  make it there some day to see it with your own eyes.

                                                                     Penguins

South Africa - the mother of all trips.

Mother nature is truly amazing. I know we have heard it countless times on National Geographic. "In the Serengeti, it is survival of the fittest". This and several other lines came flooding to me when I was sitting in a safari jeep at 5 in the morning, waiting for the cheetah to show up. Iconic scenes from "Out of Africa" and "The Ghost and the Darkness" had already romanticized the African wilderness for me.

When my husband and I got the opportunity to go on a Safari to South Africa, we knew it would be the trip of  a lifetime. Crossing the equator and setting foot on African soil was definitely on my bucket list. It was the longest journey we had ever taken - from the west coast of the US to the southern most part of Africa. We landed dazed and excited. Jet lag was a point we had crossed several hours ago. The thought of being with the Elephants kept me going. The Husband was raging with testosterone imagining a man vs wild encounter.

Johannesburg was our starting point. It was like any other big city with huge posters of Nelson Mandela and a little bit of Gandhi thrown in. It was weird seeing the Mahatma outside of India, but it also opened up a whole new chapter of Indian history that I knew very little about. I was amazed at how well Indians had integrated into African culture and society. Indians were also very much a part of African politics. Visiting the Apartheid prisons made me wonder how the world could let this go on for so long. That too in the modern era. The images were graphic and the history filled with inhuman acts. Our guide talked about how crime was a problem a few years ago. The scars from the Apartheid regime and the resulting unrest were still visible in the center of the city. Illegal immigration was also a problem in the city. But walking down the street, we could feel the colorful and eclectic vibe of the city. There still seemed to be an air of positivity and an almost cavalier attitude to life.

                                                          Gandhiji and the Guideji     

Our Safari transported us to another world. The vastness of the land completely engulfs you like no other. One week of long drives in the jeep touring Zulu land makes you feel tiny and insignificant. The animals so majestic and graceful. I felt awkward and out of place. Perhaps, the earth was only meant for the animals. Africa was really the first home of mankind. And I can see why. Its bold, beautiful and also tough. The safari and national park infrastructure was very complex. At one point, the Ranger had taken us to an elephant interaction area. We met three elephants that had escaped culling. Culling! Apparently elephant numbers were so high in some parts of Africa like Zimbabwe, that every year a certain number had to be culled. I was amazed that poaching and culling were part of the same system. Balancing man and nature is a complex and sometimes painful process. For six days I was mesmerized by the "land". Morning sunrises, Giraffes peaking through and Hippos snorting. The elegant Impalas leaping and the Zebras staring back at you with a depth only Africa could provide.

                                                                     Zebras at Zulu Nyala

I had also experienced my second snake encounter. I held a Boa Constrictor at a reptile park and watched crocodiles battle it out. I think crocodiles are the most vicious creatures I have ever seen. Even the lions and cheetahs couldn't instill the fear that I felt watching a crocodile open its mouth.

                                                                     Boa and I

We moved on to Cape town, the most beautiful city in the world. But I'll save that for my next post.